Azores Travel Guide

The Azores. You might have never heard of them. After all, they are a group of nine islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. However, after going there myself, I can definitely say they are worth a visit or even more. So much untouched beauty, few tourists and authentic experiences await you in this archipelago of Portuguese islands. From hiking, to taking in amazing views, to dolphin and whale watching to relaxing and facing the waves on dark volcanic sand beaches, the Azores have something for everyone except for the luxury traveler. If you are looking to stay in a resort and not get out of your room, then the Azores isn’t for you. The thing that makes this place so special is that not many people know about it. In their efforts to avoid crowds of leisure tourists, there is no 5-star resort in the Azores. There are 2 hotels technically classified with 5 starts however they are no resorts of any sort; they are casual and chic boutique hotels that offer a cozy room for tourists to rest in before a new day of adventure commences.

At opposite pols from its neighbouring island Madeira, the Azores is one of those rare destinations that is still so pure and not developed into a touristic place. Many think that the Azores will become the new Island, the place to go and to be seen at on Instagram. However, it seems that its government doesn’t want for that to happen. They want to keep their islands intact and away from those massive tourist crowds. Personally, I recommend from the bottom of my heart to visit these spectacular islands as truly they are one of the best kept secrets in Europe.

As my visit here was limited in time, I chose to stay and visit only Sao Miguel, the main island, with the capital Ponta Delgada. This town has that European seaside charm and it is full of restaurants, boutique souvenirs shops and small art galleries. The downtown of Ponta Delgada is the ideal place for an afternoon stroll, for souvenirs shopping and for delicious meals at a great value. A key perk of the Azores in general is that they are generally really cheap. You can get a full 3 course meal with 3 wine glasses at most restaurant across Sao Miguel at 25 euros per person.

Where to stay

There are plenty of good options of hotels across Sao Miguel that will give you a cozy bed to rest in before another day of adventure begins. Remember, the Azores isn’t about luxurious resorts but more about boutique hotels owned by the locals.

1. Azor Hotel

This modern hotel has a great location in the marina of Ponta Delgada. It is in close proximity to dozens of good restaurants and attractions. The capital is at its doorstep. If you want an urban setting on Sao Miguel, this is the hotel for you. Being one of the few classified with 5 stars, it offers clean and modern rooms, with all amenities necessary. The hotel’s breakfast is really good, offering Azorean cheeses and plenty of local fruits. The restaurant is also worth trying as it is one of the few fine dining options on the island. It serves traditional dishes with contemporary twists. The rooftop bar with the pool is definitely the place to be at night, having plenty of good snacks and interesting cocktails. Furthermore, the concierge was really helpful. One thing to keep in mind is that the hotel’s vibe was more of a business hotel in huge city rather than one in remote islands.

2. Furnas Boutique Hotel Thermal and Spa

Having a minimalist and clean look, this hotel should be your choice if you are looking for a spa vacation in Furnas. With all of the thermal waters and sauna facilities, relaxation is guaranteed. The hotel’s best feature is its sweeping mountain views.

3. Santa Barabara Eco Hotel

This hotel is a surfing hotspot, located right next to one of the best beaches in Azores. Having a sustainable approach, the hotel is very modern and it has many outdoor spaces to enjoy the amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean. The food at the beach club was really good, having fresh seafood and some delicious Portuguese dishes. The waves at this beach were the biggest I’ve ever seen in my life. Be prepared to face the huge strong waves as you bath into the Ocean or surf through them. Life guards are plenty and they make sure that you only bath in some areas of the Ocean as some of the currents can be very dangerous. This hotel is a destination for water adventure in a remote location.

Where to eat

Nowadays, it’s a rarity to find restaurants with authentic and well executed cuisine at such amazing prices. However, the Azores has plenty of them. Here are a few of my suggestions:

1. Taberna Saca Rolhas

This restaurant is a 20-minute drive from Ponta Delgada, in the village of Relva, right by the airport. If you check out your room and live your bags at the airport early and don’t know what to do, be sure to stop at this fantastic small family owned restaurant. The interiors were very authentic. There were only about 10 small tables and 2 big enough for 10 people. For me, it was definitely the most complete and tasty dining experience in Sao Miguel. Everything was great with the following standing out: garlic bread (a must have in the Azores), Jamon Iberico, Sao Jorge local cheese, sautéed lapas (which I had as my starter for every meal), garlic shrimps, fried sardines and the traditional seafood rice. Everything had so much flavor. To be honest, it was one of the most authentic and tasty dining experiences I’ve had. Since I’ve been in Portugal many times, it’s very rare that I get impressed by a Portuguese restaurant. This was one of those times which blew me away. The taste of each ingredient and each dish that was brought on the table was outstanding and will forever remain in my food memories. The service was very good as well and the Chef came a couple of times to check if everything was up to standards. If you happened to be in Sao Miguel, go to Taberna Saca Rolhas a couple of times at least. Believe me, it won’t disappoint.

2. Gatronomo

This restaurant is definitely worth a try. It is a family owned business and their passion is felt in everything from the food to the impeccable service. Our waiter was the chef’s son. He was this very young bright boy, one of the only waiters to speak English well on the island. Besides this, he had a very good sense of humour and he managed t make us feel welcome while dining in his restaurant. His mother was also a waiter, who came to us a couple of times to check how we’re doing. One of the friends I went to in the Azores had his birthday while dining at Gastronomo. To highlight the generosity of the staff, not only did they sing a lovely happy birthday to my friend, but also gave desert to the ten people at our table on the house. These kind of people make travelling special and makes me recommend not only their restaurant, but their island in general. The food was outstanding as well. Great lapas to start. Seafood skewers with condiments from the island for main course and lovely passion fruit cheesecake and soft merengue pudding for desert. I definitely recommend this place especially if you have something to celebrate. The food is simply delicious and it will definitely make your lunch or dinner one to remember.

3. Taberna Acor

This restaurant is hidden on a small idyllic street in the downtown of Ponta Delgada. All the tables are full at all times and we had to make a reservation a week before we dined here. The atmosphere was vibrant. The tables are tucked one next to each other with people talking and laughing. This is definitely one of the places you come in for the food. Come here to cook your own local tuna steak to your liking from the comfort of your own chair. End with the pineapple flambé.

What to do

When you say “the Azores”, you mean adventure. There are so many great things to do. Some of the things to not miss while in the Azores are:

- Swim in the Mosteiros natural pools

- Spend a day in Furnas

Going to Sao Miguel and not spending a day in Furnas is as if you did not go to the Azores at all. Go and see the magnificent Lagoa das Furnas, one of the three main crater lakes on the island. The magnificent views are the main reason for which people come and hike the trails around this lake. One must try in Furnas is the local Couzido, a Portuguese stew with all types of meats and vegetables cooked in pots, cooked in the caldeiras (naturally boiling hot springs) and then buried in the ground to sit for a few hours. I have to mention that this dish was definitely not one of my favorites; however, the way it is cooked makes it special enough to try.

Furthermore, if you feel like having a spa day, Furnas is the ideal place for you. Terra Nostra Parc is an amazing place with tropical gardens, a spa center, multiple places to relax and unique geothermal pools with orange water, caused by the high iron content. The entrance fee to enjoy the pools, the gardens and the relaxation areas is very reasonable at 5 EUR per person. This park is definitely worth a try for a day when you feel like you want to relax and take it easier on the adventure.

- Salto de Cabrito

This beautiful waterfall offers great views, great baths, great jumps and great hiking trails. Situated near Ribiera Grande, this place can get really scary if you have a fear of heights. However, it is of exceptional beauty and I recommend it for everyone.

- Dolphin and Whale Watching

One of the highlights of a trip to the Azores is dolphin and whale watching. It should be at the top of your bucket list of things to do on Sao Miguel. There are many agencies offering it. Our guide, Maria, an enthusiastic local, was the perfect person to inform us about these splendid creatures. One of the tourists actually had a drone and it was spectacular to see these animals spinning and turning around from above. Overall, seeing the splendid dolphins and the grand whales in their natural habitat was an experience I will never forget. I will definitely recommend this for everyone and if I will go back to the Azores, this will definitely be on the top of my things to do.

- Drink lots of KIMA

Passion Fruit is my favourite fruit of all times. I’ve tried it as a toddler for the first time when I went on my first trip to the tropical islands and I’ve fell for it ever since. Its rich, sweet flavour makes me order anything with passion fruit whenever I see it on the menu. Fortunately, the Azores is the ideal place for any lovers of passion fruit. Locals are selling it everywhere, including next to the top attractions such as lakes and beaches. Since the islands have an excessive amount of it, they created their own local drink called KIMA. I’ve been ordering this fizzy drink at every meal in the Azores since the day I’ve tried it. When in the Azores, drink tons of KIMA.

- Fishing

Azores is a paradise for passionate fisherman. This part of the Atlantic Ocean offers a variety of different fish. There are many excursions on Sao Miguel that you can choose from in terms of fishing. I have never fished before and I went with my family and some professional friends fishers. As we boarded the boat, we felt very spoiled by the kind and helpful staff. First, we started with line fishing. Then, we moved onto angling with a rod. Having the beginner’s luck, I was able to catch a few Boca Negra fishes. Furthermore, my friend caught a pretty big amberjack. I think that this was a magical experience as we had a spectacular view of the sunset and the evening breeze was amazing. The boat was a double decker and there were two main areas to hang out. The staff was local and incredibly knowledgeable in regards to information about the Azores. After we left the boat, we forgot a mobile phone. One of the guides ran after us through the whole marina and after 5 minutes of searching, he was able to find us. Instead of just keeping the phone and not reporting it as a missing one, as soon as they found the lost item, the guide ran after us through the whole marina to return it. This sort of things make you feel safe and welcome in their country. After this beautiful 3-hour trip, when we returned to our hotel, the chef cooked the fish that we caught and that’s what we had for dinner. I have to admit that this was one of the best meals we’ve had in Azores with the freshest fish I’ve ever eaten.

Where to swim

Looking at beaches in the Azores, they are all with volcanic sand and with no sun loungers. People come with their towels, chairs and umbrellas, giving the Azores a rustic vibe in this sense. Overall, the sea water in August was really good for bathing and some beaches are incredible for surfing.

Praia dos Moinhos

This is a very nice smaller beach if you are looking for something more secluded and not very crowded. The waves here are perfect to be enjoyed while bathing and there are some shops and cafes in close proximity for a casual lunch.

Bahia Praia Azores

This is my favourite beach from the multitude I tried in Sao Miguel. It is truly spectacular. It seems like it’s in a very remote location when only 15 minutes from Vila Franca, a village on Sao Miguel. The views are incredible. This beach is pretty long and it offers many options of where to sit. It wasn’t crowded at all when I went and it was high season in August. I think that’s a big plus when considering beaches. Furthermore, it has a wonderful restaurant/café. From spinach rolls, to fried sardines to garlic shrimp, fresh seafood and island veggies were prime ingredients. Everything tasted surprisingly good for a beach café. They had a wide selection of drinks and ice creams that you could take to enjoy on the beach. It is located next to the Pestana Bahia Praia Hotel so parking spaces are plenty. Overall, the beautiful views, along with its remote feeling as well as the amazing food made this beach my absolute favourite in the Azores.